Installing a dryer vent properly is what makes a vented dryer safe and efficient — it gives the hot, moist, lint-laden exhaust air a clear path to the outside. Get it right and the dryer dries quickly, stays cool and clears its moisture; get it wrong and you face slow drying, dampness, and a fire risk. This guide covers where a dryer should vent, the choice between wall and roof discharge, duct selection, run length, and what installation costs in Melbourne.
Where a Dryer Should Vent
A vented dryer must discharge to the outside of the building. The exhaust air carries both a large amount of moisture and flammable lint, so it cannot be released into the laundry, a cupboard, under the floor, or the roof cavity — all of which trap the moisture and lint where they cause damp, mould and a fire hazard.
The ideal location is a dryer positioned on or near an external wall, allowing a short duct straight out through the wall. Where that is not possible — an internal laundry with no adjacent external wall, common in Melbourne homes — the vent has to travel further, either to a more distant wall or up through the roof. The further the air has to travel, the more important good ducting and regular cleaning become.
Through the Wall vs the Roof
Through-wall discharge
A through-wall vent is the simplest and most common installation: a short duct from the dryer straight out through an external wall to a vent cover. It is easy to install, easy to clean, and the cheapest option. Where the dryer sits against or near an external wall, this is the preferred approach.
Rooftop discharge
Where the dryer is away from any external wall, the vent can run up through the roof cavity to a roof vent. This makes installation possible in internal laundries, but it is more involved to install and to clean, and lint tends to gather at the high point of the run. Rooftop vents work well but benefit from more frequent cleaning and a properly weatherproofed discharge. See our cleaning cost guide for the difference in cleaning cost.
Choosing the Duct
The duct type has a big effect on both performance and how often the vent clogs:
| Duct Type | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|
| Smooth rigid metal | Best airflow, least lint buildup, durable | Less flexible to route |
| Semi-rigid metal | Bends for short connections, firmer than flexible | Moderate lint buildup |
| Flexible foil / vinyl | Cheap, easy to route | Ribbed interior traps lint; sags; higher fire risk |
Smooth rigid metal duct is the best choice for the permanent run. Reserve flexible duct for the short, accessible connection behind the dryer if needed, and avoid long runs of ribbed flexible ducting, which trap lint and restrict airflow.
Run Length and Bends
Every machine has a maximum vent length specified by the manufacturer, and exceeding it means the dryer cannot expel its moist air effectively. The maximum is typically expressed as a total length with an allowance subtracted for each bend — because each bend adds resistance equivalent to extra metres of straight duct.
The practical rule is to keep the run as short and straight as possible. Minimise bends, avoid doubling back, and route the duct directly to the discharge. A short, straight, smooth run dries faster, stays cooler, and clogs far more slowly than a long, winding one. Where the geometry of the home makes a short run impossible, that is a strong reason to consider a heat pump dryer that needs no vent at all — see our comparison guide.
The External Vent Cover
The vent terminates outside in a vent cover — a fitting with a flap or louvre that opens when the dryer runs and closes when it stops. Its job is to let the exhaust air out while keeping weather, pests and draughts from coming back in. A good vent cover is essential: without one, cold Melbourne air, insects and vermin can enter the duct, and the open duct lets in draughts.
The cover should be sized for dryer exhaust (not a small bathroom-fan grille that would restrict the airflow), positioned so the discharged air is carried clear of the building, and kept clear of lint — the flap can jam shut if lint builds up around it, which itself causes a blockage. Checking and cleaning the cover is part of routine vent maintenance.
Installation Cost Melbourne
| Job | Complete Price (AUD) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Through-wall vent install (dryer near external wall) | $250 – $550 | Minimum call-out; short duct and wall cover |
| Longer run to external wall | $450 – $750 | Internal laundry, longer duct route |
| Rooftop vent install | $550 – $900 | Roof access, weatherproof discharge |
| Re-duct an existing poor vent | $350 – $650 | Replace flexible/sagging duct with rigid |
| Vent cover replacement | From $250 | Complete job; minimum call-out |
All prices are complete-job prices including the duct, vent cover and labour. Every installation is site-specific — FreshDuct provides a fixed quote after confirming the dryer location and discharge route. Call 0431 918 137.