The best firewood for a Melbourne wood heater or fireplace is a dense, properly seasoned native hardwood: ironbark, red gum, box or stringybark. These burn hot and clean, hold a fire for hours, and produce far less creosote than wet or softwood alternatives. But the species matters less than the moisture content — the best ironbark in Melbourne still burns poorly and clogs a flue if it is green. This guide cuts through the common confusion around local firewood.
The Best Firewood Species for Melbourne
Melbourne is well-served by Victorian and NSW hardwoods. The ones most commonly available and best suited to wood heaters are:
Ironbark is the gold standard — extremely dense, very high heat output, burns slowly and produces a long-lasting coal bed. It takes longer to season but rewards patience with excellent results. Red gum (river red gum) is the most widely available hardwood in Melbourne, slightly less dense than ironbark but excellent heat output and readily stocked. Box species (grey box, yellow box) are very good quality, widely available and often well-seasoned. Stringybark is a good middle-ground option: lighter than ironbark but burns well and is usually easier to split.
These are all dense eucalypts with high energy content. They all produce very little creosote when properly seasoned, which directly extends the time between chimney cleans and reduces fire risk. Ash and other imported species are sometimes sold in Melbourne; they are decent but generally less energy-dense and more expensive than local hardwoods.
Seasoning — Why It Matters and How Long It Takes
Properly seasoned firewood is probably the single biggest factor in chimney health. Wet or green wood burns cool and smoky, depositing creosote at up to three times the rate of dry wood, and producing far less heat per load.
Hardwoods sold in Melbourne typically need 12 months minimum of seasoning, with 18 to 24 months producing noticeably better results. The problem is the Melbourne firewood market: timber cut the previous winter is frequently on sale by April as if it is seasoned. It usually is not. The best approach is to buy in summer, stack under cover with good airflow on all sides and off the ground, and use it the following winter. That one-year lead time makes a genuine difference to both heat output and chimney health.
If you cannot buy a year ahead, ask suppliers for verified seasoned stock or look for timber that was harvested the previous year. Better stock is available — it just takes asking specifically for it.
Moisture Content and How to Test It
The target moisture content for firewood is below 20%, ideally 15% or less. Above 20%, the fire uses a significant proportion of its energy evaporating water rather than producing heat, and the cooler, smokier combustion is where most creosote comes from.
The most reliable test is a moisture meter — a small probe device available at hardware stores for around $20 to $50. Split a piece of wood and test the fresh cut face immediately. Below 20% is ready; above it needs more time. Without a meter: properly seasoned wood is noticeably lighter than green, has radial cracks at the end grain, produces a hollow clunking sound when two pieces are knocked together, and the bark lifts off easily. Green wood is heavier, the end grain looks damp and fresh, and it hisses or steams when burning. Running a fire that produces a lot of steam, smoke or persistent smouldering is a reliable sign the wood is too wet.
What Never to Burn
What you do not burn matters as much as what you do. Several materials cause immediate problems and some create serious safety risks.
Wet or green wood is the most damaging routine choice — heavy creosote, low heat, smoky combustion. Treated or painted timber releases toxic compounds when burned, including heavy metals from certain treatments. Never burn it indoors. Plywood, MDF and particleboard contain adhesives and resins that produce toxic smoke and clog the flue. Rubbish, cardboard or paper in large quantities creates sparks and embers that can ignite creosote already in the flue — occasional newspaper as fire-starting is fine, but not as fuel. Softwoods in volume — pine is the most common — are fine as kindling but too resinous and fast-burning as main fuel for a wood heater.
On EPA declared poor-air-quality days in metropolitan Melbourne, burning any wood in a residential wood heater is prohibited — EPA Victoria enforces this and it is not discretionary. Check the EPA AirWatch app or service before lighting up on days the forecast is poor. See the broader Victorian wood heater rules.